May 18, 2026

#165 - Crossing Nicaragua: 16 Days of Human-Powered Adventure with Caleb McIntyre

#165 - Crossing Nicaragua: 16 Days of Human-Powered Adventure with Caleb McIntyre
#165 - Crossing Nicaragua: 16 Days of Human-Powered Adventure with Caleb McIntyre
Paddling The Blue Podcast
#165 - Crossing Nicaragua: 16 Days of Human-Powered Adventure with Caleb McIntyre
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Caleb McIntyre recounts a life-changing 16-day (mostly) human-powered crossing of Nicaragua — mixing kayaking and cycling to move from the Pacific to the Caribbean. He describes logistical challenges (customs, transporting kayaks), dramatic lake crossings, time in remote archipelagos, crocodile filled rivers, and the unique culture and people he met along the Rio San Juan.

The episode highlights expedition planning, risk management, and how packable TRAK kayaks made the trip possible, while reflecting on how the journey rekindled Caleb’s love of adventure and shaped his perspective as a paddler and parent.

00:09 - Welcome to Paddling the Blue

01:54 - Interview with Caleb McIntyre

10:31 - Decision-Making in Outdoor Leadership

16:01 - The Call to Adventure

20:45 - Myths About Nicaragua

35:36 - Crossing to Ometepe

38:57 - Challenges on the Water

45:28 - Encounters with Locals

57:29 - Reflections on Adventure

01:00:17 - The Versatile TRAC Kayak

01:06:16 - Future Guests and Closing Thoughts

WEBVTT

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Welcome to Paddling the Blue. With each episode, we talk with guests from the

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Great Lakes and around the globe who are doing cool things related to sea kayaking.

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I'm your host, my name is John Chase, and let's get started paddling the blue.

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Welcome to today's episode of the Paddling the Blue podcast.

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Caleb McIntyre joins today's episode to recount his life-changing experience

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crossing Nicaragua, mostly by paddle.

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The trip was an opportunity for Caleb to return to a place he'd experienced

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before and fell in love with previously.

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And the trip really provided the chance to get deep into the country and for

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his group to truly immerse themselves in the landscape and in the people.

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I really think you're going to enjoy Caleb's enthusiasm and his ability to help

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you experience the trip along with him.

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Before we get to today's conversation with Caleb, James Stevenson and Simon

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Osborne at OnlineSeaKeyaking.com continue to produce great content to help you

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evolve as a paddler and as a coach.

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And you'll find everything from basic strokes and safety to paddling in tides,

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surfing, coaching, documentaries, expedition skills, and incident management, and more.

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So if you're not already a subscriber to OnlineSeaKyaking.com,

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here is your opportunity to get started.

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Visit OnlineSeaKyaking.com, use the coupon code PTBPODCAST at checkout,

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and you'll get 10% off just for being a member of the Paddling the Blue community.

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And while you're there, be sure to visit the community section where you'll

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find an interview with me.

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And thanks to Simon and Daniel for hosting me on their meetup.

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And for those of us who also enjoy paddling whitewater boats,

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be sure to check out onlinewhitewater.com.

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They're offering the same discount to listeners with the coupon code PTBpodcast at checkout.

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And I would love to help you put those skills to work. I offer a wide range

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of programs in the Great Lakes and beyond, from paddling skill development,

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instructor certifications, workshops, CPR and wilderness first aid, guided trips, and more.

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Just visit paddlingtheblue.com and click the Courses and Trips link at the top

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of the page, and I hope to see you on the water.

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Enjoy today's interview with Caleb McIntyre. Hey, Caleb, welcome to Paddling the Blue.

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Hey, John, thanks for having me. Yeah, absolutely, absolutely.

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So we've had a chance to talk a couple of times in the past and get connected.

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But I recently saw that you did a pretty cool trip through Central America.

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So I wanted to talk a little bit about that. But before we do that,

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let's talk about how did you get your start as a paddler?

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Thanks, John. I grew up being spoiled in the Pacific Northwest.

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I grew up on Vancouver Island where I saw people with kayaks and canoes.

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And I was involved in youth programs like scouts and I joined cadets.

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But I'll admit it probably wasn't until I was in my early twenties that I took

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sea kayaking seriously. I.

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Like many other people who grew up here, I had this perception that sea kayaking

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was for, quote, old people, that it was something that you did when your knees

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started giving out and you couldn't do more extreme sports, which,

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of course, I was drawn to as a young person.

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But I think that perception was quickly shattered as soon as I had the opportunity

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to do some proper expedition sea kayaking, particularly on the open west coast

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of Vancouver Island, where the conditions can be pretty serious, pretty high stakes.

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I had the chance to get my role, get into surfing, rock gardening,

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and then eventually realized that as a young person, sea kayaking could be an

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avenue for me to get employment in the outdoors.

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And so I eventually pursued certifications in sea kayaking here in British Columbia.

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And I worked as a guide and mostly as an instructor for outdoor development

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programs like Outward Bound.

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And sea kayaking really was an avenue for

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my own personal development as an instructor as as an

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as an educator but it's also been something that

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has remained a real influence in my in my

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personal life and my own hobbies so it's it's still with me very much so from

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an early age yeah that's a pretty terrible place to grow up isn't it it's rough

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man for sea kayaking yeah you know you know it so now tell us a little bit about

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the guiding experience and uh and Particularly, let's start with the training.

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You mentioned you had done some certification for guiding. What does that look

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like out in the Pacific Northwest?

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Well, I'm sure it shares a lot in common with best practices that the sea kayak

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industry has in the United States and in other parts of the world,

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in Europe and Japan and others.

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Ultimately, in British Columbia, sea kayaking remains largely industry managed.

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There's no federal regulations in Canada around sea kayaking,

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but there was a risk of that being so after some accidents happened,

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I believe in the late 90s or early 2000s, don't quote me, but ultimately it

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was the first time that there was a fatality involved in sea kayaking.

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And I think at that time, the Canadian government authorities were wondering, what is this activity?

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You know, we've got tourists coming around the world to go sea kayaking in our

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waters. And there is a risk to life. What's going on here?

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And at that time, the Sea Guides Alliance of British Columbia was formed.

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All of the industry partners and guides identified that, you know,

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yes, we need to set high standards for instruction, for guiding people.

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Qualifications for those professionals. And if we self-regulate,

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we'll hopefully prevent any future fatalities.

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We'll raise a high bar and we'll create a sustainable profession that become globally renowned.

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And I think that's still the goal of the Seacock Guides Alliance of BC.

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And as a young person, I found the qualification process arduous and expensive.

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It felt like I had to jump through a lot of hoops to

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prove myself now that i'm you know a more

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seasoned guide i i absolutely grateful that

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i had to jump through all of those hoops and prove

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myself through multiple courses and and tests

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and i think as you age you and you've

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gone through some some some close calls you

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look back on your training and you're really grateful for it

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all and you're grateful for the scenarios that

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you had to play out in a controlled environment because when

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when real you know as they say you know crap hits the fan it's all all you have

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is your training to fall back on and so i yeah i'm really grateful for it and

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it was something that i did like i said earlier just mostly to get employment

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in the outdoors i didn't necessarily have a strong passion for paddling initially.

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I think for me, sea kayaking has always just been about a vehicle for exploration.

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You know, the skills have generally been secondary to the why,

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you know, to the reason I go outdoors.

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And I think of my own passion for human power travel, being in my own body,

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getting out of my head a little bit. Sea kayaking is perfect for that.

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It's just such an efficient way to move. Absolutely. So that's,

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that's why I, that's why I, that's why I still do it, even though I'm not a guide anymore.

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You know, it's, it's one of my favorite ways to move through, through this planet.

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Yeah. I mean, you're right. It's the skills help you be able to enjoy that environment

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better because you aren't necessarily worried about and thinking about doing

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all the things that you're doing to, to be there.

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You have, you have the skills, knowledge, and abilities to be able to support

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yourself in that environment. Therefore, you can immerse yourself in that environment even more.

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So well said. Absolutely. Like we can't undervalue the skills because if you

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don't have them, you're not going anywhere. Or if you are, you're going to get

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in trouble. And we've all seen that before, right? Sure.

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Yeah, the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of British Columbia has got a pretty well-developed

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program in this. So congratulations on going through that.

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Out of curiosity, how do you think the decision-making, the leadership pieces,

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the risk management pieces that they taught and you've experienced through that,

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how has that helped you outside of paddling?

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It's a really good question.

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There's a lot in common, you know, and when you go through guide training or

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you go through first aid training and you're trained for those high consequence

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scenarios where there's risk to life in limb,

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If you've even gone through that training and you haven't done the scenario-based

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stuff where you're thrown into a situation where there's simulated risk,

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where there aren't actually lives at stake, but there very well could be,

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you're really tested and you'd be put into a stressful scenario and you get

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a chance to see how you'd actually respond.

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And there are many times in life outside

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of our work in the outdoors where we're

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faced with very real situations where we

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have to keep that level head or we have to kind

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of remove ourselves from everybody else's stress we have

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to put those voices of doubt

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aside shut them off and fall

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back on our training and i and i think there's also

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there's an element there around self-care and self-mastery

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and they you know in a first date scenario they say like you know assess the

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scene you got to take care of yourself as a first dater and as a guide if you

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don't have mastery over your own vessel over your own gear over your own paddle

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you're not going to be able to be much use and so i.

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I appreciate that if you're going to pursue outdoor leadership,

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yeah, it's an honor and a pleasure to be able to get paid to take people outside.

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But that comes with a responsibility to be the best paddler you can be,

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the best leader that you can be.

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And like I said, to be on top of your stress game,

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you know, and really pay attention to how you react to other people's stress,

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how you allow other people's energy to

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impact your own and to be ideally that

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steady rock for yourself but for your

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team for your clients whoever it might be and if i that find that for myself

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even as a parent now you know recognizing how much my energy the way i respond

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to stress to situations will influence my my toddler my son and i am grateful

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that in my life as an outdoor a professional,

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I've had to learn to keep a level head, you know, and be aware of my emotions,

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be aware of my reactions and to be that source of stability and that source of calm.

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And ultimately that belief that I could get myself and I can get this team to

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this situation and out the other side.

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Yeah. Yeah. So you were able to put those skills to work recently.

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So you had the opportunity to join a trip through Central America.

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And so tell us a little bit about that trip.

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Central America is a beautiful place.

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It's, you know, geographically, it's that zone ultimately between Mexico and Colombia.

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And it's warm, it's beautiful, and it's largely underdeveloped economically.

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But culturally, it's so rich.

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And i had the pleasure of traveling there kind of on a bit of a solo you know soul searching,

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adventure that some of us are lucky to do when we're in our early 20s and it

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was a very pivotal pivotal moment for me in terms of my personal development

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and my connection to community i could go on about that trip but ultimately

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10 years exactly down the line i was sitting at my desk at track kayaks,

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reflecting on how much I miss solo adventures, how much I miss just doing things

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for myself since becoming a dad.

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It's so much of my personal time if outside of work is just put towards family.

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I very, very rarely have a chance to ask, you know, what does Caleb want to

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do this weekend? Or where does Caleb want to paddle this month?

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You know, I don't really get much time for that right now in my life.

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And so when I got a call, first it was started with an email from...

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From Jimmy, the owner of Rat Race Adventures, which is a very unique outdoor

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adventure company out of the UK.

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Their tagline, I think, is Extraordinary Adventures for Ordinary People.

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And that might sound kind of gimmicky, but if you take a look at the trips that

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these folks run, they are extreme.

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They are ultra-marathon races, circumnavigations, huge distances over very short

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periods of time for people who do not want a typical vacation.

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And this is you know as a guide myself i thought wow it's amazing

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that companies like this actually exist and you know that there's a

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clientele that is looking for this level of

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challenge you know these are not people who just want to sit on

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a beach during spring break these are people who want to run

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across countries and up and down mountains and all that

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kind of stuff anyway jim reached out because as

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he is being the owner of a company like rat race he's always

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looking for new destinations to run trips and

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at the time he needed a kayak a

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seaworthy kayak he could take to micronesia which is a tiny little collection

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of islands that form a country he's going to explore an ancient nearly sunken

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city and anyway long story short he had a great time loved the kayak we had

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a great call after and and the conversation evolved to where i hoped it would go.

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And and jim said you know i've actually got an idea for a

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fleet of these kayaks there's a trip that i want to run

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in nicaragua and of course having been

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to the country before having a lot of romanticism around this

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around the place immediately my spidey senses kind of kicked in and i just kind

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of had this feeling of like i i need to be there i need to go on this trip you

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know it's one thing to be able to hook up a fellow paddler with some pretty

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sweet kayaks for an epic trip it's another thing,

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to be actually be able to participate in that. And I didn't ask.

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I was hopeful, but I didn't ask.

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But I came into work about three weeks out, maybe four weeks out from the intended

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start of the Nicaragua adventure.

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And Jim said, you know, Caleb, why don't you come down? Why don't you join us?

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And you can help bring some of the kayaks for the fleet, bring some down from Canada.

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And i admit i i was scared

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because an opportunity like this this kind of offer might

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be once in a lifetime but it's not so easy now you know i've got a family at

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home i've i have a full-time job pretty strong responsibilities at track so

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for me to consider leaving two and a half weeks leave my my partner alone with

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our baby and leave my post at track hq i was nervous but to be honest with you, John.

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I just went ahead and bought my plane tickets before I ever asked permission.

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I just, I just knew it was almost on a spiritual level.

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I was like, okay, it's exactly 10 years since I went to this country on an admittedly

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transformational personal experience.

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I'm being invited to return and to cross the country by human power under my

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own steam with a group of probably absolutely amazing humans.

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I can't say no. And if anybody said no,

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I'd tell them to screw off because this is this is an

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absolute gift from the universe so i bought

00:15:20.749 --> 00:15:23.409
my tickets i got lucky i got good a good price on them

00:15:23.409 --> 00:15:26.389
even last minute i told my partner honey i

00:15:26.389 --> 00:15:32.469
got this trip it's a work trip in nicaragua i think i gotta go i have to go

00:15:32.469 --> 00:15:36.649
looked at me i yeah i said i have to go and she knew the story and she said

00:15:36.649 --> 00:15:41.729
i guess you gotta go and and nolan the founder of track i i showed him the itinerary

00:15:41.729 --> 00:15:44.989
i told him what the offer was that i said nolan i got to go.

00:15:45.329 --> 00:15:48.089
And he said, I think so. I think you got to go.

00:15:48.249 --> 00:15:52.269
And it was a full on everybody supporting me. So I feel incredibly grateful

00:15:52.269 --> 00:15:56.769
for that at this phase of my life to have the opportunity and excuse to rekindle

00:15:56.769 --> 00:15:58.849
my own sense of adventure after having to.

00:15:59.329 --> 00:16:02.029
Put that on pause since becoming a dad.

00:16:02.169 --> 00:16:04.569
I don't know about you, John, if you have kids or anybody else listening,

00:16:04.769 --> 00:16:09.269
but once you have kids, your relationship with adventure and the outdoors does change.

00:16:09.789 --> 00:16:13.989
Certainly. Become a little bit more aware of your fragility and you become more

00:16:13.989 --> 00:16:17.749
aware of those who rely on you and your, so your risk tolerance changes.

00:16:18.249 --> 00:16:22.129
And I didn't necessarily like that. You know, I felt like I'd lived 31 years

00:16:22.129 --> 00:16:25.129
to get a risk tolerance that I felt really comfortable with.

00:16:25.129 --> 00:16:29.449
And then all of a sudden I had a baby and I'm don't feel as confident to do

00:16:29.449 --> 00:16:33.689
the things that I've spent all of these years in learning how to do,

00:16:33.809 --> 00:16:37.549
you know, whether it's sailing or whitewater or backcountry skiing,

00:16:37.629 --> 00:16:41.329
you know, all of these, all these, these risk management decisions,

00:16:41.549 --> 00:16:43.929
they, the factors change, but yeah.

00:16:44.566 --> 00:16:47.826
I felt really empowered to go on this trip and I knew that I'd have a really

00:16:47.826 --> 00:16:49.986
strong team. I wasn't going to be going alone.

00:16:50.126 --> 00:16:52.686
There was going to be a lot of expertise and it was familiar territory.

00:16:52.726 --> 00:16:58.166
It was a country I knew, a language I speak enough of to survive and an adventure

00:16:58.166 --> 00:17:03.746
that I knew I would be retelling myself and others for many years to come.

00:17:04.446 --> 00:17:08.226
Very cool. And it was, but it was a bit of a quick pack job to be honest with

00:17:08.226 --> 00:17:13.006
you, you know, and I wasn't just bringing one kayak. I had to bring three kayaks

00:17:13.006 --> 00:17:17.226
with me in a bag, plus all the paddling gear I needed for Nicaragua.

00:17:17.846 --> 00:17:23.386
And if, and anyone who's listening, if you've ever been to particularly Central America,

00:17:23.546 --> 00:17:28.526
but a lot of Latin American countries aren't known for their incredible selection

00:17:28.526 --> 00:17:32.906
of high protein, nutrient rich snacks, you know?

00:17:33.026 --> 00:17:36.266
So like a lot of the things that we rely on as outdoor professionals,

00:17:36.626 --> 00:17:39.926
like dehydrated meals and granola bars and protein balls

00:17:39.926 --> 00:17:42.806
and all of these types of these types of snacks and

00:17:42.806 --> 00:17:45.666
foods like you just can't find them down there

00:17:45.666 --> 00:17:50.246
so i in anticipation for that i probably took an additional 20 to 30 pounds

00:17:50.246 --> 00:17:54.926
worth of snacks to be honest with you i didn't mess around because i just knew

00:17:54.926 --> 00:17:59.186
the high new based on the route plan just how much paddling we were doing and

00:17:59.186 --> 00:18:02.606
not just paddling there was there was a cycling component as well which was

00:18:02.606 --> 00:18:05.626
it was pretty intense but the paddling was by far the most,

00:18:05.966 --> 00:18:08.206
the biggest wild card in this country.

00:18:08.206 --> 00:18:14.366
As far as we knew, the route that we are intending to do had never been attempted by kayak before.

00:18:14.766 --> 00:18:19.546
I'm sure that, you know, hundreds of years ago before the Spanish arrived and

00:18:19.546 --> 00:18:24.726
conquered the region ruthlessly, that indigenous people would have crossed those

00:18:24.726 --> 00:18:28.866
great lakes of Nicaragua, no problem, and traded on the various islands.

00:18:29.126 --> 00:18:34.286
But since that Spanish conquest, there hasn't been any record of people attempting

00:18:34.286 --> 00:18:39.086
to paddle across those great lakes and you you can kind of understand why when you get there.

00:18:40.506 --> 00:18:45.906
They are very similar to your own backyard, John, the Great Lakes of North America.

00:18:46.246 --> 00:18:49.586
Large bodies of water. You don't really see the other shore.

00:18:50.086 --> 00:18:54.306
Lots of fetch from the trade winds, which are not far away, you know,

00:18:54.406 --> 00:18:55.686
from ripping across the Caribbean.

00:18:56.066 --> 00:19:01.586
And so pretty much every day you'd expect to see sheep in the pasture every day on those lakes.

00:19:01.746 --> 00:19:07.406
It's white cappy and tight swell, you know, tight periods like you guys are

00:19:07.406 --> 00:19:10.446
used to on the Great Lakes. So that was, as a West Coast boy,

00:19:10.566 --> 00:19:14.326
that was not something I was used to, not something I was anticipating.

00:19:15.526 --> 00:19:21.946
And it was definitely concerning, I'll say, upon getting our eyes on the water for the first time.

00:19:22.446 --> 00:19:26.006
There's a lot of question marks of like, if this whole trip was in vain,

00:19:26.286 --> 00:19:28.666
it's like if it was, it was all completely impossible.

00:19:28.666 --> 00:19:31.386
People i'd love to hear i'd love to talk

00:19:31.386 --> 00:19:34.306
about the trip in detail here in just a moment but tell me before

00:19:34.306 --> 00:19:37.566
we get into that dispel some of the myths of nicaragua and

00:19:37.566 --> 00:19:40.466
what people should really know about the country such a

00:19:40.466 --> 00:19:43.906
good question john well like many countries

00:19:43.906 --> 00:19:49.546
in latin america there's a history of colonization a history of independence

00:19:49.546 --> 00:19:56.646
and revolution and struggle a political struggle between the influences of colonial

00:19:56.646 --> 00:20:00.686
powers including the united states and more socialist movements,

00:20:01.106 --> 00:20:03.246
communist movements that have swept through the region.

00:20:04.206 --> 00:20:08.966
In short, it's a history of violence and upheaval and civil war.

00:20:09.386 --> 00:20:14.786
And I think of incredible resilience of the people and of their culture and

00:20:14.786 --> 00:20:16.006
their care for each other.

00:20:16.286 --> 00:20:22.746
So I think people have this idea that these countries are scary and war-torn and dangerous and...

00:20:23.852 --> 00:20:26.952
And impoverished. And some of those things are true.

00:20:27.712 --> 00:20:32.172
These people are poor. Many of them will never leave the villages they were

00:20:32.172 --> 00:20:34.792
born and raised in. But it's far from dangerous.

00:20:35.412 --> 00:20:40.192
Kind people, generous people, they have everything they need in terms of their

00:20:40.192 --> 00:20:42.552
community and their access to food and shelter.

00:20:42.752 --> 00:20:45.752
I mean, you don't see homeless people like you do in North America.

00:20:45.872 --> 00:20:49.592
They take care of each other down there. And there's challenges with corruption

00:20:49.592 --> 00:20:51.792
within the government. and that

00:20:51.792 --> 00:20:54.732
is something that the locals kind of keep hush-hush amongst travelers.

00:20:55.632 --> 00:20:59.072
But as a foreigner in Nicaragua, I always felt safe.

00:20:59.552 --> 00:21:03.812
I always felt welcomed and appreciated for the value I was bringing to the country.

00:21:04.052 --> 00:21:08.312
And even when we were passing through regions that really never see gringos,

00:21:08.612 --> 00:21:10.272
the response was always a smile.

00:21:10.632 --> 00:21:14.672
You know, I think people in Nicaragua are grateful that people from around the

00:21:14.672 --> 00:21:17.192
world want to see their beautiful country and want to spend

00:21:17.232 --> 00:21:20.372
their money there and help rejuvenate that country as

00:21:20.372 --> 00:21:23.732
it still recovers from from eras of civil war and

00:21:23.732 --> 00:21:26.312
we saw evidence of that when we were there you know

00:21:26.312 --> 00:21:29.932
we were hiking we hiked the highest peak in nicaragua while we were there that

00:21:29.932 --> 00:21:34.052
was part of our itinerary and if you stepped off the beaten track of that trail

00:21:34.052 --> 00:21:38.152
you would encounter if you weren't careful you would encounter landmines from

00:21:38.152 --> 00:21:43.032
from the civil war era between the contras and and and the more socialist groups

00:21:43.032 --> 00:21:46.252
but the country has by and large been very cleaned up.

00:21:46.452 --> 00:21:52.092
And one thing that's special about Nicaragua is there is not drug cartel activity

00:21:52.092 --> 00:21:56.332
like you would expect in places like Mexico and El Salvador,

00:21:56.872 --> 00:21:58.492
for whatever reason, the government there.

00:21:58.612 --> 00:22:03.232
And I think the people as well have been very resistant to those types of influences and.

00:22:03.912 --> 00:22:06.872
Generally i consider it a very welcoming

00:22:06.872 --> 00:22:10.072
and appealing place to travel and cheap very

00:22:10.072 --> 00:22:12.972
inexpensive so there's a there's a lot of benefits

00:22:12.972 --> 00:22:18.192
there but of course it is a little more rugged and i think you know if you are

00:22:18.192 --> 00:22:22.732
used to staying in hotels you know three and four star hotels you were you'll

00:22:22.732 --> 00:22:26.132
probably be a little bit disappointed on what's in terms of what's available

00:22:26.132 --> 00:22:32.272
for comfort accommodations and food is going to be simple it's going to be typical local,

00:22:32.772 --> 00:22:37.132
fresh, healthy food that is similar to what locals eat.

00:22:37.272 --> 00:22:39.852
You know, you're not going to find a lot of cheeseburgers and fried chicken

00:22:39.852 --> 00:22:42.532
in Nicaragua, but I'll tell you what, you're going to eat well,

00:22:42.692 --> 00:22:43.332
you're going to eat healthy.

00:22:43.712 --> 00:22:47.032
It's going to be a lot of fresh fruit and you're not going to have a hard time

00:22:47.032 --> 00:22:48.592
finding a Coca-Cola if that's important.

00:22:49.232 --> 00:22:52.452
Well, it sounds like a great way to travel for sure. And from the pictures,

00:22:52.592 --> 00:22:56.092
and we'll include links to the blog that you wrote about the trip.

00:22:56.172 --> 00:22:58.812
The pictures were spectacular and the story as well.

00:22:58.912 --> 00:23:02.942
So let's talk a little about that uh you've had a few literal landmines

00:23:02.942 --> 00:23:06.682
along the way as you'd mentioned but i know that you show up at the at the airport

00:23:06.682 --> 00:23:10.942
a bunch of kayaks and bags you get all that stuff on the plane hump it all off

00:23:10.942 --> 00:23:14.202
the plane and have to go through uh through customs and everything so tell us

00:23:14.202 --> 00:23:17.902
what that process is like with a with a bunch of boats and bags going through

00:23:17.902 --> 00:23:22.882
customs and the figurative landmine that you might have faced there oh man i'm.

00:23:23.528 --> 00:23:28.428
I will admit it was a lot easier than I thought it would be to take three 16-foot

00:23:28.428 --> 00:23:30.368
kayaks and put them on a plane.

00:23:30.948 --> 00:23:33.488
I thought it was going to be a nightmare.

00:23:34.328 --> 00:23:40.908
And luckily, I did have to pay for extra baggage, and I did pay overweight fees on a couple of bags.

00:23:41.588 --> 00:23:45.908
And that cost some money, but a lot less than it would have cost for me to rent

00:23:45.908 --> 00:23:47.188
these boats or import them.

00:23:47.348 --> 00:23:50.968
So I've talked to people who talk about, oh, it's cost so much.

00:23:50.968 --> 00:23:56.468
And I think it's going to cost you a couple hundred dollars at most to pay for

00:23:56.468 --> 00:24:00.488
an extra large oversized bag, depending on how you move a folding kayak.

00:24:00.808 --> 00:24:05.168
100% worth it. I'm not going to complain about the baggage fees because of what

00:24:05.168 --> 00:24:07.388
it empowers on the other side.

00:24:07.968 --> 00:24:12.788
That being said, when you fly into a country like Nicaragua with a totalitarian

00:24:12.788 --> 00:24:16.828
government, you need to be prepared for some questions to be asked.

00:24:16.828 --> 00:24:21.748
And sometimes you need to be prepared to pay some fees and duties.

00:24:22.880 --> 00:24:26.040
When local entrepreneurs in Nicaragua want to import product,

00:24:26.200 --> 00:24:30.820
if they fly it in from wherever, they have to have all of that product inspected

00:24:30.820 --> 00:24:35.320
at the airport, and they often are required to pay a tax on what they import.

00:24:35.740 --> 00:24:39.680
Now, when I showed up in Nicaragua, I showed up with three kayaks,

00:24:39.760 --> 00:24:41.840
and two of them were virtually brand new.

00:24:42.040 --> 00:24:45.440
They were for the fleet for rat race. One of them was my personal kayak,

00:24:45.560 --> 00:24:48.040
so it would have been a little beat up. It still had some silt on it or some

00:24:48.040 --> 00:24:49.480
sand from previous week.

00:24:49.940 --> 00:24:53.220
But the other two were virtually brand new and and and i

00:24:53.220 --> 00:24:56.660
don't know if you know what it what's what a track kayak looks like on the bag

00:24:56.660 --> 00:25:01.460
but it's you know it's carbon fiber and aluminum tubing and frames and hydraulics

00:25:01.460 --> 00:25:07.460
and you know like taken apart it i imagine that the inspector with the you know

00:25:07.460 --> 00:25:10.660
the machine was like i don't know what that is but we definitely need to look.

00:25:11.200 --> 00:25:14.020
So they flagged it they took all three cocks they opened them up

00:25:14.020 --> 00:25:17.120
and the you know in the in the limited spanish that we were able to communicate

00:25:17.120 --> 00:25:19.920
there was a question like what is this yeah like an erector so

00:25:19.920 --> 00:25:23.040
i pull i pulled out a picture of the

00:25:23.040 --> 00:25:25.920
of the track website and and like walked them through it

00:25:25.920 --> 00:25:29.160
and they like i could they could see i could see the the wheels

00:25:29.160 --> 00:25:32.140
turning in their brains like really it's a

00:25:32.140 --> 00:25:34.840
kayak okay man if you

00:25:34.840 --> 00:25:38.080
say so and they said this one's yours clearly because

00:25:38.080 --> 00:25:41.060
they could tell it had been used but these two these are staying

00:25:41.060 --> 00:25:44.620
with us and immediately i was like oh no

00:25:44.620 --> 00:25:47.600
here we go because i have 16 days

00:25:47.600 --> 00:25:50.640
in nicaragua to complete this whole trip with a

00:25:50.640 --> 00:25:53.740
bunch of other people and we need these boats

00:25:53.740 --> 00:25:56.680
like we cannot afford even a couple of hours

00:25:56.680 --> 00:26:01.580
of wasted time waiting you know waiting to get a hold of some some baggage that's

00:26:01.580 --> 00:26:05.080
been confiscated so as soon as this happened it was a bit of a red flag like

00:26:05.080 --> 00:26:08.280
you said a bit of a landmine and a concern because there was track kayaks that

00:26:08.280 --> 00:26:12.480
were going to be arriving from panama from the united kingdom them and they

00:26:12.480 --> 00:26:16.080
were all going to be flying into the same airport and potentially all getting flagged.

00:26:16.822 --> 00:26:20.162
So luckily we had someone on our team, and I think this is a good learning for

00:26:20.162 --> 00:26:25.462
anyone who wants to do unique expeditions abroad, particularly involving things

00:26:25.462 --> 00:26:29.722
like kayaks, is we had a member of our team who was fluent in Spanish. He was from Panama.

00:26:30.022 --> 00:26:33.602
He had been familiar with these types of procedures. And to be honest with you,

00:26:33.722 --> 00:26:37.982
we found our way to the giant warehouse where our kayaks were being held.

00:26:38.142 --> 00:26:41.742
Along with lots of other products that was to be imported into the country.

00:26:41.742 --> 00:26:44.582
And we sweet talked our way in there and we

00:26:44.582 --> 00:26:47.802
had a nice letter and we told the director of

00:26:47.802 --> 00:26:50.822
customs what our plans were and we were going to explore their

00:26:50.822 --> 00:26:54.302
beautiful country by human power and it was going to be an international sensation

00:26:54.302 --> 00:26:57.722
and apparently that worked

00:26:57.722 --> 00:27:00.642
and they very quickly you know kind of accelerated the

00:27:00.642 --> 00:27:03.382
process they didn't charge us anything they gave

00:27:03.382 --> 00:27:06.042
us special paperwork that said that these kayaks were

00:27:06.042 --> 00:27:08.842
being temporarily imported and after that we

00:27:08.842 --> 00:27:11.762
were actually able to streamline the importation of all the other track kayaks

00:27:11.762 --> 00:27:14.982
to come after so that was great very grateful

00:27:14.982 --> 00:27:18.322
we had that talent on our team and at

00:27:18.322 --> 00:27:21.302
least a silver-tongued devil from panama able to

00:27:21.302 --> 00:27:24.122
kind of make it work and that was you know

00:27:24.122 --> 00:27:26.822
big celebration but it did set us back to be honest a few of

00:27:26.822 --> 00:27:29.902
us were waiting back while everybody else was kind of getting in position

00:27:29.902 --> 00:27:32.802
for the start of the human-powered element that could

00:27:32.802 --> 00:27:35.602
have gone a lot worse but kind of you know ultimately set

00:27:35.602 --> 00:27:39.022
us up and from there it was

00:27:39.022 --> 00:27:42.222
you know our goal was to reach the highest point nicaragua human

00:27:42.222 --> 00:27:47.182
power to the west coast the pacific coast and then human power ourselves all

00:27:47.182 --> 00:27:52.122
the way to the caribbean coast in 16 days and that turned out to be possible

00:27:52.122 --> 00:27:57.202
but super daunting ultimately this is a paddling podcast so i'll briefly skip

00:27:57.202 --> 00:28:00.002
over the the biking component but the ultimate.

00:28:01.086 --> 00:28:04.006
Kind of takeaway is that regardless of whether you're moving

00:28:04.006 --> 00:28:07.806
by kayak or bicycle the human powered method

00:28:07.806 --> 00:28:10.606
of travel is you know an exquisite way to move it's just the right

00:28:10.606 --> 00:28:13.646
pace you just get to absorb everything sure seeing the

00:28:13.646 --> 00:28:16.486
country from the water was incredible seeing it from

00:28:16.486 --> 00:28:20.526
a bicycle from two wheels was also wonderful it

00:28:20.526 --> 00:28:23.386
was probably the best days of cycling i've ever had i do

00:28:23.386 --> 00:28:26.226
love biking it's my next it's my i think

00:28:26.226 --> 00:28:28.866
it ties with paddling in terms of my favorite made a

00:28:28.866 --> 00:28:32.866
move through this planet but i i do highly recommend bike

00:28:32.866 --> 00:28:35.726
travel in a place like nicaragua you're gonna you're

00:28:35.726 --> 00:28:38.486
gonna be able to use off-road routes you can be able to stay off

00:28:38.486 --> 00:28:41.466
the pavement and you'll be able to use the benefits

00:28:41.466 --> 00:28:47.746
of you know modern map apps to plan a route that really keeps you off the beaten

00:28:47.746 --> 00:28:50.966
track and gives you a really unique perspective on a country like nicaragua

00:28:50.966 --> 00:28:55.466
and you can you know realistically you know we crossed you know from our day

00:28:55.466 --> 00:29:00.506
where we we left from the Pacific coast and across the watershed, uh, into the,

00:29:00.746 --> 00:29:02.726
into the, you know, watershed that flows east into the Caribbean.

00:29:02.726 --> 00:29:04.486
That only took us one day of riding.

00:29:04.706 --> 00:29:09.426
So it's, you know, it's a relatively small country that you can cross on two

00:29:09.426 --> 00:29:10.966
wheels very efficiently.

00:29:11.226 --> 00:29:13.786
So what kind of distance did you cover over the 16 days?

00:29:14.246 --> 00:29:19.866
The 16 days in total was about, about 600 kilometers.

00:29:20.166 --> 00:29:23.626
Okay. 200 kilometers were on the river about

00:29:23.626 --> 00:29:27.026
another 200 kilometers on the lake

00:29:27.026 --> 00:29:30.066
and about another just over another 200 that

00:29:30.066 --> 00:29:32.806
were that were peddled okay so walk us

00:29:32.806 --> 00:29:36.226
walk us through and like you said let's talk the paddling pieces walk us through

00:29:36.226 --> 00:29:39.386
some of the highlights we won't be able to go day by day through all 16 days

00:29:39.386 --> 00:29:42.286
but take us through some of the highlights that you really experience on that

00:29:42.286 --> 00:29:48.626
trip absolutely well as i mentioned nicaragua has a couple of very large lakes

00:29:48.626 --> 00:29:52.006
that are effectively great lakes in the Central America context.

00:29:52.886 --> 00:29:56.646
And they are fierce. Like I mentioned, potential for lots of fetch,

00:29:56.746 --> 00:30:00.026
very strong waves and wind. And...

00:30:00.591 --> 00:30:04.271
I think there was a lot of potential that, as I mentioned, that this trip would

00:30:04.271 --> 00:30:05.591
have been completely impossible.

00:30:05.971 --> 00:30:11.651
We were prepared to have to wake up long before sunrise to be able to have somewhat calm conditions.

00:30:11.911 --> 00:30:17.171
And the crossings involved in the itinerary were minimum 20-kilometer crossings

00:30:17.171 --> 00:30:23.211
in some cases, with the potential for crossings up to 30 kilometers or more without any land.

00:30:23.551 --> 00:30:28.751
And I, even as a sea kayak professional, had never considered a crossing that long.

00:30:28.751 --> 00:30:31.531
Just had never had any reason to consider that

00:30:31.531 --> 00:30:34.591
kind of crossing and there was every reason

00:30:34.591 --> 00:30:37.271
to say that this trip would have been a would have been a

00:30:37.271 --> 00:30:42.671
failure so what was it was necessary to make sure that we could finish even

00:30:42.671 --> 00:30:45.411
if we weren't going to be able to do every aspect of the trip human powered

00:30:45.411 --> 00:30:50.791
was for us to have pretty much a local on call with a with a safety boat which

00:30:50.791 --> 00:30:55.251
is pretty much an open-top fishing boat that was available on call in case we needed to bail out.

00:30:56.131 --> 00:31:01.851
I'd say the highlight of the trip for me was being able to see the country of

00:31:01.851 --> 00:31:06.331
Nicaragua from the cockpit of a kayak at that pace.

00:31:06.711 --> 00:31:10.751
When you're off the road, you kind of end up seeing the backyard view,

00:31:10.911 --> 00:31:14.191
right? You see where people do their laundry on the lakeshore.

00:31:14.351 --> 00:31:16.431
You see where kids are playing after school.

00:31:16.631 --> 00:31:20.971
You see the fishermen cleaning their nets, you know, in the afternoon after

00:31:20.971 --> 00:31:23.691
the morning's catch. And you see...

00:31:24.690 --> 00:31:27.910
A real version of a country that is

00:31:27.910 --> 00:31:30.950
very different than what is going to be on the tourist path

00:31:30.950 --> 00:31:35.070
you know that most gringos are going to witness you're

00:31:35.070 --> 00:31:37.870
going to get waved at by a lot of people who have never seen a

00:31:37.870 --> 00:31:41.370
kayak before you're going to watch you know

00:31:41.370 --> 00:31:44.290
grown men just drop their tools

00:31:44.290 --> 00:31:48.110
and stop and stare at you because they've just never seen

00:31:48.110 --> 00:31:50.790
this form of movement before so we were a bit of

00:31:50.790 --> 00:31:54.790
a spectacle and sometimes I was a bit uncomfortable with that you know it was

00:31:54.790 --> 00:31:58.850
it's kind of funny to think like here we are a bunch of gringos we're flying

00:31:58.850 --> 00:32:02.010
halfway across the world in some cases for two and a half weeks to go witness

00:32:02.010 --> 00:32:07.950
this country and and move in a way that people have been traveling on in this

00:32:07.950 --> 00:32:09.750
landscape for thousands of years.

00:32:10.737 --> 00:32:14.597
I think especially when it came to being on the Rio San Juan,

00:32:14.757 --> 00:32:19.977
jumping ahead the lake was special in that we were blessed with incredibly good

00:32:19.977 --> 00:32:21.017
weather for the crossings.

00:32:21.197 --> 00:32:25.817
And in fact, one of the guides, the locals that we'd hired to be available on

00:32:25.817 --> 00:32:27.417
standby that, God forbid,

00:32:27.717 --> 00:32:31.957
a squall picked up while we were in the middle of a 30-kilometer crossing,

00:32:32.157 --> 00:32:37.317
they asked us, which saints did we pray to, being a very Catholic country?

00:32:37.317 --> 00:32:42.237
Because the conditions that we had while we were in Nicaragua,

00:32:42.677 --> 00:32:46.177
especially for the lake portion, were unseasonably calm.

00:32:46.637 --> 00:32:51.377
There's every reason that there is going to be way too rough out there for us

00:32:51.377 --> 00:32:52.237
to make these crossings.

00:32:52.437 --> 00:32:55.677
And one thing I'll mention is that I am a professional sea kayaker,

00:32:55.837 --> 00:33:02.017
but several of the participants that joined me on this trip from the UK were,

00:33:02.017 --> 00:33:06.097
they were very fit, but they weren't experienced sea kayakers.

00:33:06.097 --> 00:33:10.357
They didn't have, you know, years of, of paddling experience to have us,

00:33:10.397 --> 00:33:11.897
you know, excellent forward stroke.

00:33:12.097 --> 00:33:16.177
I mean, none of them knew how to roll a kayak, nevermind, you know,

00:33:16.257 --> 00:33:19.117
had practiced a re-entry or a cowboy scramble.

00:33:19.377 --> 00:33:25.777
So, you know, we had very fit paddlers who were very keen and very ready to charge, but no.

00:33:26.419 --> 00:33:29.639
Some very some variables to consider you know were they

00:33:29.639 --> 00:33:32.779
going to be able to handle really rough waters

00:33:32.779 --> 00:33:35.799
and so we had a go or no go decision

00:33:35.799 --> 00:33:38.479
at one point if you look at the map you'll see you'll see

00:33:38.479 --> 00:33:41.339
that to cross to the island of

00:33:41.339 --> 00:33:44.679
ometepe which is a gorgeous volcanic island

00:33:44.679 --> 00:33:47.499
in the middle of of lake nicaragua the largest

00:33:47.499 --> 00:33:50.379
of the great lakes it's very unique island it looks like something out

00:33:50.379 --> 00:33:53.059
of a video game map it's two volcanoes joined at

00:33:53.059 --> 00:33:55.859
the hip one's very young uh you

00:33:55.859 --> 00:33:58.599
almost still smoking the other ones ancients covered in

00:33:58.599 --> 00:34:01.599
jungle and it's one of the most important

00:34:01.599 --> 00:34:04.439
places i've ever been to in my life having been there twice now

00:34:04.439 --> 00:34:07.859
but the crossing to this island was going to be arguably

00:34:07.859 --> 00:34:11.619
the most daunting and probably the most significant and

00:34:11.619 --> 00:34:14.439
there was a go no go moment where we'd already

00:34:14.439 --> 00:34:18.319
paddled nearly 30 kilometers that day all beams

00:34:18.319 --> 00:34:21.399
seized the whole way lots of weather cocking you know our left

00:34:21.399 --> 00:34:25.719
arms were sore from dealing with these trade winds and our

00:34:25.719 --> 00:34:28.679
our team was really deliberating like do we

00:34:28.679 --> 00:34:31.759
do we decide to make this committed crossing.

00:34:31.759 --> 00:34:35.679
Which could be four to five hours of non-stop paddling into

00:34:35.679 --> 00:34:38.699
the wind and if we don't make it we have

00:34:38.699 --> 00:34:42.199
to maybe bail out into an open top

00:34:42.199 --> 00:34:45.079
fishing boat with our collapsible kayaks it was not

00:34:45.079 --> 00:34:51.339
an outcome that any of us wanted but also we came this far with the intention

00:34:51.339 --> 00:34:55.379
of making this crossing none of us wanted to give up either you know myself

00:34:55.379 --> 00:34:59.459
especially you know i i had it in my mind that no matter what i was going to

00:34:59.459 --> 00:35:04.239
make this crossing but you know as with paddling you got to do what's best for the pod.

00:35:05.354 --> 00:35:08.574
So we left the beach actually anticipating that we might call it,

00:35:08.734 --> 00:35:12.514
you know, that we might give up and pack up our boats and take a shuttle to Ometepe.

00:35:12.794 --> 00:35:15.894
But as we left the shore, something miraculous happened.

00:35:16.314 --> 00:35:20.734
And this is, I think, where the guides asked us, you know, what saints did we pray to?

00:35:21.194 --> 00:35:25.714
Because it's almost, just as we'd kind of given up on the prospect of making

00:35:25.714 --> 00:35:27.214
this 20-kilometer crossing,

00:35:27.923 --> 00:35:33.043
the winds just kind of dissipated. And all of a sudden, the waves started chilling

00:35:33.043 --> 00:35:36.203
out like faster than I could have anticipated. It was something divine.

00:35:36.923 --> 00:35:41.223
And I'm talking like two hours later, we're in the middle of the crossing,

00:35:41.923 --> 00:35:43.903
probably 10 kilometers offshore.

00:35:44.203 --> 00:35:49.823
And it's glass, John. I don't even know if I could properly explain it because

00:35:49.823 --> 00:35:53.483
it doesn't really make sense like in the way that water behaves.

00:35:53.763 --> 00:35:56.943
Like it usually would take a lot longer for a sea state to calm down.

00:35:57.923 --> 00:36:03.183
But it's almost as if some supernatural forces were at play and really wanted

00:36:03.183 --> 00:36:06.343
us to make this inaugural crossing to Ometepe.

00:36:06.603 --> 00:36:11.803
By the time we got there, the sun was maybe 15 minutes from going below the

00:36:11.803 --> 00:36:17.243
horizon. There was this epic glow, sun setting over volcanoes.

00:36:18.323 --> 00:36:22.783
And we landed on a beach that some locals were playing at, a bunch of kids going

00:36:22.783 --> 00:36:24.163
for a swim with their parents.

00:36:24.843 --> 00:36:28.583
I remember I came up, I was one of the last people to bring my kayak up on shore

00:36:28.583 --> 00:36:30.803
because I wanted to get a roll in to cool down.

00:36:30.983 --> 00:36:36.883
I popped my skirt and a buddy passed me an ice cold beer, Nicaraguan beer.

00:36:37.083 --> 00:36:41.283
And I usually don't drink. And it was one of the most refreshing things I'd ever had in my life.

00:36:41.403 --> 00:36:46.263
And I remember feeling like, wow, that was at that time the longest day of flat

00:36:46.263 --> 00:36:50.743
water paddling I'd ever had and the longest crossing that I had ever done.

00:36:50.743 --> 00:36:57.023
And it was to return to arguably one of the most significant places of my own youth.

00:36:57.183 --> 00:36:59.603
So it was a huge, almost like a rewrite of passage.

00:36:59.843 --> 00:37:05.043
And there's pictures of us, you know, cheersing to that moment with the mainland

00:37:05.043 --> 00:37:06.623
of Nicaragua in the background.

00:37:06.723 --> 00:37:09.883
And I think that'll be forever the most memorable moment of the trip.

00:37:10.063 --> 00:37:15.223
But of course, despite that being a big accomplishment, it was one of just many

00:37:15.223 --> 00:37:17.503
more 20 plus kilometer crossings.

00:37:17.503 --> 00:37:20.703
And eventually we would have to leave the safety of that island,

00:37:20.883 --> 00:37:25.363
you know, it's protected shores of Omotepe and make our way across the rest of that inland sea.

00:37:26.086 --> 00:37:29.066
And there was a big question mark. If you look at the map, you know,

00:37:29.106 --> 00:37:30.526
it's the route map that is linked.

00:37:30.646 --> 00:37:35.006
You'll see there's a big question mark kind of in the very smack bang in the middle of the lake.

00:37:35.846 --> 00:37:40.846
If you zoom in with a satellite image, you'll see it was effectively a rock,

00:37:41.006 --> 00:37:43.986
a glorified rock called Isla de Zanate,

00:37:44.246 --> 00:37:48.746
which is a place where colonies of birds would hang out, but it's not known

00:37:48.746 --> 00:37:51.206
as a place for humans to spend any time.

00:37:51.206 --> 00:37:55.526
We know that fishermen would often anchor their boats in the lee of the island

00:37:55.526 --> 00:38:03.086
to hide out from storms, but there had never been a place that any local had spent time on on foot.

00:38:04.562 --> 00:38:09.522
Was a potential stopover point. It would be a 30-kilometer non-stop as the coral

00:38:09.522 --> 00:38:14.002
fly crossing from Omotepe to potentially find this rocky outcrop,

00:38:14.142 --> 00:38:16.942
which according to satellite images had some trees on it.

00:38:17.442 --> 00:38:21.842
But it would be a big wild card. It would be in the middle of the lake,

00:38:22.322 --> 00:38:24.562
a 30-kilometer crossing minimum in either direction.

00:38:24.782 --> 00:38:28.502
And even if we could land on this piece of karst in this volcanic landscape,

00:38:28.762 --> 00:38:33.002
we might slice our boats up and there might not be enough trees on shore for

00:38:33.002 --> 00:38:34.422
us to set up hammocks to sleep.

00:38:34.562 --> 00:38:39.262
So we might just end up marooning ourselves on a rock in the middle of an inland

00:38:39.262 --> 00:38:41.342
sea with no means of escape.

00:38:42.142 --> 00:38:47.182
And the forecast, despite it having been unseasonably calm for the two days

00:38:47.182 --> 00:38:52.482
prior, was expected to return to 20 knot winds plus.

00:38:52.702 --> 00:38:57.782
So we would have been potentially locked on this. Well, that sounds like a definite reason to go there.

00:38:57.782 --> 00:39:00.782
It was definitely a reason to go there i mean

00:39:00.782 --> 00:39:03.862
if i was there with maybe a couple of buddies seasoned

00:39:03.862 --> 00:39:07.002
paddlers and we were like okay we're gonna do this we're

00:39:07.002 --> 00:39:10.122
gonna absolutely do this we're gonna free the first people to paddle into

00:39:10.122 --> 00:39:12.842
nothing because we couldn't see this rock from umatepe you

00:39:12.842 --> 00:39:15.582
know 30 kilometers away a rock that is

00:39:15.582 --> 00:39:18.322
maybe 20 feet off the ground you know like we would

00:39:18.322 --> 00:39:21.022
have been we'd probably been several hours before we got

00:39:21.022 --> 00:39:23.962
a glimpse of it if we were able to hold our course and there's no charts

00:39:23.962 --> 00:39:26.822
for this region you know we're largely relying on on our

00:39:26.822 --> 00:39:29.702
phones and gps honestly john it

00:39:29.702 --> 00:39:33.022
was the time in the trip where we had to give up on

00:39:33.022 --> 00:39:37.082
our goal of doing the whole thing by human power and i admit that on this podcast

00:39:37.082 --> 00:39:41.562
as much as the mission was to complete the entire coast to coast of nicaraco

00:39:41.562 --> 00:39:47.482
by human power with the time we had available it just wouldn't have been feasible

00:39:47.482 --> 00:39:51.102
you know it might have been possible but there's also a chance that it could

00:39:51.102 --> 00:39:52.202
be life-threatening and.

00:39:52.949 --> 00:39:56.009
Or it would have meant that we couldn't complete the trip at all.

00:39:56.249 --> 00:39:59.609
You know, we might have hurt ourselves or hurt our equipment to the point where we couldn't complete.

00:39:59.729 --> 00:40:04.029
And so all of us collectively said, as much as we love the human powered element

00:40:04.029 --> 00:40:06.989
of this trip, and we're going to continue to honor that everywhere else that

00:40:06.989 --> 00:40:11.829
we can, we're going to give up that superficial objective for the grander mission

00:40:11.829 --> 00:40:14.449
of getting from one side of the country to the other.

00:40:14.889 --> 00:40:18.849
And so we took what is a more conservative approach. We made the mainland,

00:40:19.049 --> 00:40:20.649
we returned to the mainland of Nicaragua.

00:40:20.649 --> 00:40:25.529
It was only a 22-kilometer crossing of nonstop open water, which we were kind

00:40:25.529 --> 00:40:29.049
of, the wind was at our backs, the storm was kind of growing as we crossed,

00:40:29.129 --> 00:40:32.509
and we did get across before things got too spicy, which I'm grateful for.

00:40:32.869 --> 00:40:36.609
And luckily, because we had packable kayaks, a fleet of 10 kayaks,

00:40:36.689 --> 00:40:40.209
we could pack them back down into bags, throw them into a fishing boat,

00:40:40.749 --> 00:40:47.569
all of us, and get back across this lake into the protected islets of the Solentenami archipelago.

00:40:47.569 --> 00:40:50.369
So this was kind of our refuge where we waited

00:40:50.369 --> 00:40:55.409
out the storm that was to follow and this is a very rarely visited corner of

00:40:55.409 --> 00:41:00.549
nicaragua that i admit if if i could go back i would spend more time there if

00:41:00.549 --> 00:41:04.209
i could go back with a with a kayak that i could bring in a bag i'd probably

00:41:04.209 --> 00:41:05.369
skip everything else i'd already

00:41:05.369 --> 00:41:09.649
done just go straight to that archipelago because it's it's something.

00:41:10.529 --> 00:41:13.169
Really special rather than nicaragua there's very few people who

00:41:13.169 --> 00:41:16.869
live there it's only accessible by these little boats and

00:41:16.869 --> 00:41:19.789
the bird life was something that i the only

00:41:19.789 --> 00:41:22.529
like i'd only seen that kind of biodiversity and that

00:41:22.529 --> 00:41:25.369
intensity and density of life particularly bird life

00:41:25.369 --> 00:41:28.369
in the amazon and what was the name of that archipelago again

00:41:28.369 --> 00:41:33.549
that archipelago is called solente solente salente and it's in the kind of the

00:41:33.549 --> 00:41:37.809
bottom right hand corner of the largest lake in nicaragua and like i said a

00:41:37.809 --> 00:41:42.949
place that very few nicaraguans go never mind tourists a real gem within central

00:41:42.949 --> 00:41:45.929
america And if you're a bird lover and you're a wildlife lover,

00:41:45.929 --> 00:41:49.969
I think it's a place that can't be missed within Nicaragua.

00:41:50.960 --> 00:41:56.500
And that was kind of our last stop on the Big Lake and a chance for a rest day. We had some injuries.

00:41:56.780 --> 00:41:59.280
You know, there's always foot injuries, it feels like, with paddling trips.

00:41:59.480 --> 00:42:04.520
And there was some big bugs. We had some mystery spider bites on people's hands that were festering.

00:42:04.820 --> 00:42:08.460
You know, some pretty gross stuff. We're grateful we had a medic on the trip.

00:42:08.480 --> 00:42:12.560
I can imagine that if we didn't have a medic, the trip would have taken a lot

00:42:12.560 --> 00:42:16.260
longer as we waited for people to recover from various infections and things.

00:42:16.260 --> 00:42:23.260
But everybody was a huge trooper and we were able to get off the lake on our target time,

00:42:24.020 --> 00:42:29.200
that's as we got closer and closer to the caribbean as we've made our way further east,

00:42:29.860 --> 00:42:36.180
nicaragua becomes more and more remote you see fewer and fewer if any tourists

00:42:36.180 --> 00:42:40.880
we were definitely the only gringos we saw in this in this in this corner of

00:42:40.880 --> 00:42:44.980
nicaragua and it's also an area where you kind of have to follow the rules a

00:42:44.980 --> 00:42:45.920
little bit more carefully.

00:42:46.900 --> 00:42:49.580
And I mean that because when you get to this corner of Nicaragua,

00:42:49.760 --> 00:42:51.600
you get pretty close to the Costa Rican border.

00:42:52.640 --> 00:42:56.920
And the river that we were planning to paddle out to the Caribbean,

00:42:57.200 --> 00:42:58.420
which is called the Rio San Juan.

00:42:58.620 --> 00:43:02.500
There's lots of Rio San Juans around the world, but this is the one in Nicaragua.

00:43:02.740 --> 00:43:10.380
It flows out of Lago, Nicaragua, into the Caribbean over 200 kilometers of jungle.

00:43:10.880 --> 00:43:13.080
And I was really looking forward to this Cause I don't know about you,

00:43:13.160 --> 00:43:18.560
John, but as much as I love sea kayaking, I, I secretly love river paddling even more.

00:43:19.160 --> 00:43:23.400
Maybe it's cause I'm lazy and I just like a little current, but I love watching

00:43:23.400 --> 00:43:28.420
the world pass by at that pace and having that linear path to follow.

00:43:28.600 --> 00:43:32.360
It's kind of like a, it's like a trail, but it's water. And I was so looking forward to it.

00:43:32.900 --> 00:43:35.300
Well, you know, I mean, crossings, crossings can be exciting,

00:43:35.340 --> 00:43:38.160
but they really do keep all the interesting stuff at the shore.

00:43:38.897 --> 00:43:42.577
Yeah. I mean, I like finishing a crossing, you know, it's a,

00:43:42.617 --> 00:43:45.857
it's a real type two fun, but rivers, you never really want them to end.

00:43:46.017 --> 00:43:48.437
Like you just wish it could keep going on forever. Cause there's just,

00:43:48.697 --> 00:43:50.057
it's just a treat around every corner.

00:43:50.537 --> 00:43:55.857
Though I, this is, you know, if there's any part of the story that I find most

00:43:55.857 --> 00:43:58.637
interesting, it's probably the river because I'm a Canadian,

00:43:58.637 --> 00:44:04.157
I'm a spoiled, you know, rural, rural boy who grew up with clean water around me.

00:44:04.157 --> 00:44:09.617
And, you know, you go to a place like Nicaragua that doesn't have the infrastructure

00:44:09.617 --> 00:44:15.437
to afford its citizens waste management systems and sewage treatment and, you know,

00:44:15.577 --> 00:44:19.957
freshwater filtration and all of the things that we take for granted in North

00:44:19.957 --> 00:44:22.317
America and Europe and in the Western world in general.

00:44:22.317 --> 00:44:26.217
When you go to Nicaragua, you really get a wake-up call because that river,

00:44:26.457 --> 00:44:31.517
the Rio San Juan, effectively serves as the sewage management system for pretty

00:44:31.517 --> 00:44:37.317
much the entire eastern seaboard or the entire eastern part of the watershed for Nicaragua.

00:44:38.017 --> 00:44:40.977
You know, everything that flows into the lakes and into the rivers,

00:44:40.977 --> 00:44:43.377
it eventually all goes into the Rio San Juan.

00:44:43.377 --> 00:44:47.597
So as we got closer and closer to the headwaters and the kind of last urban

00:44:47.597 --> 00:44:50.897
center in Nicaragua, before you head up to the Caribbean and San Carlos,

00:44:51.157 --> 00:44:56.617
the water changed color and it got murky and brown and it started to smell different.

00:44:56.977 --> 00:45:01.757
And I stopped going for swims and I stopped rolling my kayak to cool down.

00:45:01.757 --> 00:45:08.017
And I also stopped swimming to go for a pee because the river is infested with

00:45:08.017 --> 00:45:12.637
crocodiles of all shapes and sizes. And I had never seen the crocodiles.

00:45:13.037 --> 00:45:15.937
I've seen alligators, but I'd never seen crocodiles. And they are truly,

00:45:15.937 --> 00:45:18.337
I think, what dinosaurs are inspired by.

00:45:19.137 --> 00:45:23.117
And as soon as I saw them on the shoreline and I saw how big they could be,

00:45:23.737 --> 00:45:27.917
I didn't really want to be dangling my feet in the water to take a break.

00:45:28.637 --> 00:45:33.517
It definitely changed our relationship with the landscape and became just a little bit more...

00:45:34.351 --> 00:45:37.031
Austere you know it was dirty water that had the potential to

00:45:37.031 --> 00:45:40.091
get you sick the shoreline was murky and

00:45:40.091 --> 00:45:43.051
mucky and deep there weren't sandbars to land your kayaks

00:45:43.051 --> 00:45:45.931
on there weren't eddies to hide in and take

00:45:45.931 --> 00:45:48.971
refuge in it was just a non-stop moving conveyor belt

00:45:48.971 --> 00:45:52.131
for the most part with with a lot of risks involved

00:45:52.131 --> 00:45:55.951
and so it changed it was a different kind of paddling trip than i'd been that

00:45:55.951 --> 00:45:59.931
i'd done it kind of combined you know a passion for paddling with a bit of a

00:45:59.931 --> 00:46:04.611
reality check in terms of the way that countries like nicaragua function but

00:46:04.611 --> 00:46:08.151
it was also a really beautiful way to see the way that people live in this part

00:46:08.151 --> 00:46:10.871
of the world completely unreliant,

00:46:11.571 --> 00:46:17.411
on modern civilization despite the dirty water and the things trying to eat

00:46:17.411 --> 00:46:20.371
you let's let's talk a little bit about some of those people experiences you

00:46:20.371 --> 00:46:24.851
must have had some fantastic people experiences along that river oh man i i

00:46:24.851 --> 00:46:29.171
a river is a river right you know you start at one end and you get to the other and.

00:46:30.201 --> 00:46:33.721
You know, most of us thinking you don't really need a guide for a river.

00:46:34.261 --> 00:46:37.521
I think this trip proved to me that that's not necessarily true.

00:46:37.681 --> 00:46:41.561
I think if in the future, if I ever had the opportunity to paddle down a river

00:46:41.561 --> 00:46:44.521
with someone who knows it, I always would do it.

00:46:44.681 --> 00:46:49.461
Because every river has its way of flowing throughout the seasons,

00:46:49.621 --> 00:46:50.541
depending on the water level.

00:46:51.341 --> 00:46:54.941
And if you have someone who knows a river like the back of their hand,

00:46:55.041 --> 00:46:58.121
like one of the local guides that we did Mateo spoke

00:46:58.121 --> 00:47:01.561
no English but he knew that river like

00:47:01.561 --> 00:47:04.721
it was his you know it's like it's his like it's

00:47:04.721 --> 00:47:07.621
his personal way to work every day because it is it's the way he travels

00:47:07.621 --> 00:47:12.001
and he helped us find the the

00:47:12.001 --> 00:47:15.441
fastest ways to move it's a pretty large river and at times doesn't flow as

00:47:15.441 --> 00:47:19.001
fast as you'd like it to sometimes you're facing pretty strong headwinds that

00:47:19.001 --> 00:47:24.981
can nullify the power of the current so Mateo helped us identify the strongest

00:47:24.981 --> 00:47:28.121
current within the river And that was hugely helpful,

00:47:28.441 --> 00:47:32.061
especially when we were facing headwinds that felt like they were stronger than the current.

00:47:32.581 --> 00:47:36.421
You know, Mateo was able to help identify the parts of the river that were moving fastest.

00:47:36.661 --> 00:47:40.261
And that really helped us meet our kilometer objectives because we had a limited

00:47:40.261 --> 00:47:41.501
time to complete that river.

00:47:42.292 --> 00:47:46.652
So Mateo was clutch, and sometimes his niece was there with us.

00:47:47.172 --> 00:47:53.512
And keep in mind they're in like a small little riverboat, and she's chopping up fresh fruit.

00:47:53.752 --> 00:47:56.472
That was really nice. but the it's the people

00:47:56.472 --> 00:47:59.272
on the shoreline that i think were most interesting as i mentioned these

00:47:59.272 --> 00:48:03.072
people are are thriving despite any kind

00:48:03.072 --> 00:48:06.412
of connection to modern civilization they are

00:48:06.412 --> 00:48:09.792
clearing jungle by hand often having

00:48:09.792 --> 00:48:12.732
controlled burns moving all of that burnt lumber

00:48:12.732 --> 00:48:16.812
out of the way constructing their own homes by

00:48:16.812 --> 00:48:20.172
hand they are planting coconuts and

00:48:20.172 --> 00:48:23.272
bananas and whatever else they can they are you know

00:48:23.272 --> 00:48:26.752
bringing cattle down on barges and and

00:48:26.752 --> 00:48:29.612
farming pigs and cows and goats

00:48:29.612 --> 00:48:32.712
and whatever else they can and they're raising their kids

00:48:32.712 --> 00:48:35.732
effectively in the jungle you know that's why as a

00:48:35.732 --> 00:48:38.652
new dad i had always kind of tugged at my heart because i

00:48:38.652 --> 00:48:41.512
end up really missing my son it was my first time ever being away

00:48:41.512 --> 00:48:45.652
from my family but often we would paddle by little

00:48:45.652 --> 00:48:48.412
tiny villages or even just one shack you'd see

00:48:48.412 --> 00:48:51.612
it on on the shore and a kid would come running out

00:48:51.612 --> 00:48:54.312
and would would run along the shoreline for

00:48:54.312 --> 00:48:57.652
as long as they possibly could trying to keep up with us you know yelling and

00:48:57.652 --> 00:49:00.932
screaming and laughing because of course they'd never seen a bunch of gringos

00:49:00.932 --> 00:49:06.572
float by their house in these colorful kayaks and the most common response from

00:49:06.572 --> 00:49:09.992
the adults they would just all of them would just stop whatever they're doing

00:49:09.992 --> 00:49:12.272
and stare because again we were a bit of a spectacle and.

00:49:13.331 --> 00:49:21.031
It was really for me humbling. You know, we, we get so fussy about everything

00:49:21.031 --> 00:49:22.251
has to be so, you know, perfect.

00:49:22.471 --> 00:49:26.471
And we're often worried about, you know, our, our kids safety,

00:49:26.751 --> 00:49:31.051
you know, walking on sidewalks and, and, you know, hold my hand across the street kind of thing.

00:49:31.231 --> 00:49:35.531
And meanwhile, I'm watching, watching these kids, like, you know,

00:49:35.611 --> 00:49:39.491
little toddlers play on the edge of a, of a raging river full of crocodiles.

00:49:39.651 --> 00:49:41.931
And they're just, you know, waving at us from the shoreline.

00:49:41.931 --> 00:49:44.811
And, you know, I think about, you know, if that was a kid in North America,

00:49:44.931 --> 00:49:47.771
their mom would be screaming at them, going to pick them up and,

00:49:47.811 --> 00:49:49.251
you know, keep them away.

00:49:49.451 --> 00:49:52.591
You know, but there it's just a different relationship with nature,

00:49:52.751 --> 00:49:55.271
a different relationship with risk, you know, and...

00:49:56.128 --> 00:50:00.528
And I wonder too, I wonder how much better off young people are growing up in

00:50:00.528 --> 00:50:04.768
a wild environment like that where they, yeah, it's dangerous and it's raw and

00:50:04.768 --> 00:50:06.928
the consequences are real.

00:50:07.068 --> 00:50:11.248
But, you know, kids learn how to thrive as humans, you know,

00:50:11.348 --> 00:50:14.468
and how to be confident in their natural environment.

00:50:14.728 --> 00:50:18.748
So that was really inspiring for me just to see how comfortable a lot of these

00:50:18.748 --> 00:50:23.108
little kids are in a place that we consider wild and a place that we consider

00:50:23.108 --> 00:50:25.248
a place we travel for an experience.

00:50:25.248 --> 00:50:28.448
This is just their backyard you know and what's

00:50:28.448 --> 00:50:31.348
what's again unique about this river is it forms the

00:50:31.348 --> 00:50:34.708
border between nicaragua and costa rica which you know these are not countries

00:50:34.708 --> 00:50:38.708
that friendly or friendly countries but there is smuggling activity that happens

00:50:38.708 --> 00:50:43.048
you know whether it's humans trying to make their way north or there is gold

00:50:43.048 --> 00:50:48.088
that is prevalent within this jungle and within this this river area and so

00:50:48.088 --> 00:50:50.448
we've been told that there is smuggling activity that happens,

00:50:50.928 --> 00:50:54.148
and for that reason the the river is patrolled so

00:50:54.148 --> 00:50:56.988
every hour or two as we're paddling down the river

00:50:56.988 --> 00:51:00.628
our guide would out of nowhere sometimes quickly

00:51:00.628 --> 00:51:03.648
you know pull off the side of the river and we have to really be paying attention

00:51:03.648 --> 00:51:08.288
that we didn't miss our turn because we'd all have to get off the you know pretty

00:51:08.288 --> 00:51:11.648
much we have to pull off to the side of the river again very few eddies so we're

00:51:11.648 --> 00:51:16.848
like paddling hard and just hanging on to a dock or a piece of ropes that's

00:51:16.848 --> 00:51:20.348
thrown out for us and And all of us would raft up, we'd wait on the shore,

00:51:20.568 --> 00:51:23.088
we'd effectively share our paperwork.

00:51:24.028 --> 00:51:26.348
With members of the Nicaraguan army.

00:51:27.228 --> 00:51:30.408
And they would review it, they'd see the manifest of who we were,

00:51:30.588 --> 00:51:34.588
our nationalities, what our purpose of our trip was, they'd verify it.

00:51:34.968 --> 00:51:37.828
And eventually, in five or ten minutes, they'd send us on our way.

00:51:38.028 --> 00:51:43.788
And luckily, we never had any issues with these kind of military checkpoints.

00:51:44.605 --> 00:51:47.105
You know, we, we'd always made sure to put our cameras away.

00:51:47.325 --> 00:51:49.325
We, you know, turn our GoPros off and stash them.

00:51:49.625 --> 00:51:52.625
At one point, our first military checkpoint, I thought it was pretty cool.

00:51:52.885 --> 00:51:57.165
And I remember I had my GoPro on the deck of my kayak and I was filming and

00:51:57.165 --> 00:52:02.625
a young man in fatigues and an AK 47 pointed at me and yelling at me in Spanish.

00:52:02.785 --> 00:52:05.105
And they said, Caleb, put your, take your GoPro off. You know,

00:52:05.765 --> 00:52:07.425
they, they don't, they don't want to be on camera.

00:52:08.005 --> 00:52:11.565
I totally respected that. So that's a good thing. Good thing to know is,

00:52:11.665 --> 00:52:16.205
you know, ultimately this is a controlled waterway. You can't just go down as

00:52:16.205 --> 00:52:18.025
a tourist without, you know, having.

00:52:19.120 --> 00:52:23.320
You have to ultimately have permission and you need to go through these checkpoints

00:52:23.320 --> 00:52:27.780
and you need to stop at every one and they need to see that you've passed the other ones in between.

00:52:28.060 --> 00:52:32.800
So I, I will say that if I had just been a random gringo who thought I could

00:52:32.800 --> 00:52:34.700
float down this river by myself,

00:52:34.700 --> 00:52:38.220
I probably would have gotten in a lot of trouble because I wouldn't have known

00:52:38.220 --> 00:52:43.220
where to pull off what the little tributaries to go paddle up to go out of the military checkpoint.

00:52:43.240 --> 00:52:46.940
And, and I don't know, I imagine if we had skipped one, what would have been

00:52:46.940 --> 00:52:51.620
the consequences? You know, would they come chasing after us with their AK-47s

00:52:51.620 --> 00:52:54.040
and arrest us and take our kayaks? I don't know.

00:52:54.240 --> 00:52:56.440
But generally, we were, you know, respected.

00:52:56.960 --> 00:53:02.880
And, you know, we'd done our paperwork ahead of time. And we were able to move very smoothly.

00:53:03.160 --> 00:53:07.600
And at one point, the river actually, the Rio San Juan divides in two.

00:53:07.880 --> 00:53:11.200
You know, most rivers, they just have more tributaries adding to them.

00:53:11.300 --> 00:53:12.540
And they just get bigger and bigger and bigger.

00:53:13.060 --> 00:53:16.720
This river is unique in that it actually splits into two. and one half flows

00:53:16.720 --> 00:53:21.680
into Costa Rica and the other half continues up northward and continues to form

00:53:21.680 --> 00:53:24.500
the border of Nicaragua. So you don't want to miss that turn.

00:53:25.680 --> 00:53:29.060
You've got your last turn off to stay in Nicaragua. And at that point,

00:53:29.200 --> 00:53:32.480
it was kind of the final stretch. And we started to smell the Caribbean Sea.

00:53:32.680 --> 00:53:36.200
It almost felt like I could hear it before I could, but it was just so close

00:53:36.200 --> 00:53:38.880
and started to flatten out and slow down a little bit.

00:53:39.220 --> 00:53:45.060
And I'll admit, I was tired at this point. I was sunburned, John.

00:53:45.220 --> 00:53:49.620
Like, I was super sunburned. I am used to paddling in the Pacific Northwest,

00:53:49.880 --> 00:53:53.280
and sure, we have long, beautiful days in the summertime, but I've never really

00:53:53.280 --> 00:53:56.940
messed around with, you know, sunscreen on anything but my face.

00:53:57.300 --> 00:54:02.200
But in Nicaragua, your hands, you know, if they're not covered,

00:54:02.240 --> 00:54:04.540
if you're not wearing gloves on your hands, like...

00:54:05.041 --> 00:54:08.161
Your hands just get mangled from paddling. The tops of my hands,

00:54:08.201 --> 00:54:11.501
I looked like a leopard. They were so burned and bubbled and peeling.

00:54:11.741 --> 00:54:16.721
And the inside of my hands, luckily I was blister-free because I was using a

00:54:16.721 --> 00:54:17.901
Greenland paddle the whole time.

00:54:18.001 --> 00:54:21.841
But a lot of my colleagues had multiple gnarly blisters and your hands are all

00:54:21.841 --> 00:54:28.681
pruney from this, you know, just warm, wet, you know, it's an interesting place

00:54:28.681 --> 00:54:30.181
to be paddling all day, every day.

00:54:30.801 --> 00:54:34.581
That's a big lesson. If I was to return to the tropics to paddle,

00:54:34.581 --> 00:54:39.281
i would always wear gloves not like neoprene paddling gloves just like maybe

00:54:39.281 --> 00:54:43.201
like cycling gloves or just something just to keep the sun off off the top of

00:54:43.201 --> 00:54:47.501
your hands because they just get mangled so i was i admit by the time we were

00:54:47.501 --> 00:54:50.961
smelling the caribbean and we were finding our,

00:54:51.501 --> 00:54:54.461
way through the lagoons that are the kind

00:54:54.461 --> 00:54:57.321
of this it's like a maze to find your way out of the river

00:54:57.321 --> 00:54:59.961
by the time we we saw the caribbean on the

00:54:59.961 --> 00:55:03.101
horizon i was ready to go home i was missing my family I you

00:55:03.101 --> 00:55:05.781
know I'd done the hardest longest crossings of my

00:55:05.781 --> 00:55:09.021
life I'd I'd paddled down arguably one

00:55:09.021 --> 00:55:11.901
of the grossest water bodies ever and yet so beautiful at

00:55:11.901 --> 00:55:15.821
the same time and all of my colleagues they saw you know the first sandbar they

00:55:15.821 --> 00:55:19.101
could they pulled their kayaks up and got out popped their skirts and gave each

00:55:19.101 --> 00:55:23.101
other hugs and celebrated but I I'll admit John I I wasn't really done until

00:55:23.101 --> 00:55:28.721
I paddled the Caribbean proper and so I I followed the the river out into the

00:55:28.721 --> 00:55:31.321
sea maybe a bit naively supposedly.

00:55:32.561 --> 00:55:37.341
And of course, if you've ever paddled a river out to sea, you know, it can get pretty rippy.

00:55:37.621 --> 00:55:41.921
It can, you know, the currents can converge. You got all this current from the

00:55:41.921 --> 00:55:43.581
river flowing out to sea.

00:55:43.781 --> 00:55:49.021
You've got all of these, the rip currents from the waves and the Caribbean at

00:55:49.021 --> 00:55:52.021
this time of year is not a calm body of water.

00:55:52.161 --> 00:55:57.281
It is ruthless and aggressive and shallow and, you know, nasty waves.

00:55:57.441 --> 00:56:02.721
And I went out there thinking, here, here I am. I'm going to have this romantic end of the trip moment.

00:56:03.361 --> 00:56:07.361
And I got out there and my kayak just starts drifting sideways and I'm getting

00:56:07.361 --> 00:56:11.821
literally sucked out to sea, you know, and I'm thinking, this is the last thing

00:56:11.821 --> 00:56:14.021
I want. I just paddled for 15 days straight.

00:56:14.461 --> 00:56:18.161
All I want to do is be done. And I, here I am trying to be a hero and I'm getting

00:56:18.161 --> 00:56:22.461
sucked out to sea and, and nobody out, no one's going to follow me out here.

00:56:22.581 --> 00:56:25.921
So I, I was, I was smart and I ended up just charging back to shore,

00:56:26.141 --> 00:56:30.361
digging in deep. I surfed a wave into shore and I popped the skirt and I said, okay, we're done.

00:56:30.981 --> 00:56:33.461
We did this thing. We went coast to coast and...

00:56:34.649 --> 00:56:38.529
Yeah, I remember kind of recording a voice message for my family at the time,

00:56:38.669 --> 00:56:40.329
just letting them know how grateful I was.

00:56:40.529 --> 00:56:46.389
Because, you know, again, once you become a parent, your relationship with the outdoors changes,

00:56:47.049 --> 00:56:52.869
and the value of the time away from your family to just be in your own body,

00:56:52.969 --> 00:56:57.729
to just be your own self, to kind of rekindle that sense of childish adventure

00:56:57.729 --> 00:57:01.929
that is what often gets us into the outdoors and gets us into paddling in the first place.

00:57:01.929 --> 00:57:07.169
I just, I'd missed it, man. And, and at the same time, I had the,

00:57:07.329 --> 00:57:11.109
it was the first time in my life that I actually got to feel what it feels like

00:57:11.109 --> 00:57:13.749
to really miss my family. You know, I'd never been away.

00:57:14.269 --> 00:57:18.069
I'd never had a family to miss, you know, and I'd never been away from my family

00:57:18.069 --> 00:57:19.609
long enough to really miss them.

00:57:20.029 --> 00:57:23.009
You know, to that every time I saw a little kid, I thought of my son,

00:57:23.109 --> 00:57:26.869
you know, and that was a blessing, I think, for myself as an adventurer to realize

00:57:26.869 --> 00:57:29.589
that, yes, I am a paddler.

00:57:29.729 --> 00:57:34.909
Yes, I am an adventurer. Yes, I need to continue to do these things that make me feel alive.

00:57:36.126 --> 00:57:39.066
And I have so much more to live for.

00:57:39.326 --> 00:57:44.766
I have a family back home that misses me and loves me. And I can hold both of

00:57:44.766 --> 00:57:46.906
those truths in my mind at the same time.

00:57:47.186 --> 00:57:51.346
And I don't know. I'd like to say that I would have got there to that realization

00:57:51.346 --> 00:57:53.166
without a trip like this.

00:57:53.606 --> 00:57:57.826
But I don't know for sure. And I'm back at it again.

00:57:57.986 --> 00:58:04.406
I'm back home working full time, nine to five, doing the dad life grind, which is beautiful.

00:58:05.086 --> 00:58:08.046
But i'm really grateful that i can reflect back on

00:58:08.046 --> 00:58:11.226
a on a trip not so long ago you know within

00:58:11.226 --> 00:58:14.286
the last couple of months still and will always

00:58:14.286 --> 00:58:18.026
just kind of forever be just in the back of my mind that's

00:58:18.026 --> 00:58:21.066
reminding me that i am yes i am a dad

00:58:21.066 --> 00:58:24.306
yes i am a professional yes i am in this

00:58:24.306 --> 00:58:27.366
phase of life but i am also still that kid

00:58:27.366 --> 00:58:30.346
who went to nicaragua when he was 20 and

00:58:30.346 --> 00:58:33.386
had a transformational experience i am still the outdoor

00:58:33.386 --> 00:58:36.346
educator and the guide and the paddler i am

00:58:36.346 --> 00:58:40.326
still an adventurer who likes to push myself and to take risks and to do hard

00:58:40.326 --> 00:58:44.926
things i still got it you know i still have the fitness and the capability and

00:58:44.926 --> 00:58:50.786
the risk management and yeah so i'm i'm really more than anything grateful for

00:58:50.786 --> 00:58:55.766
that opportunity to just kind of step back into time and to you know i I think for myself,

00:58:56.006 --> 00:59:00.566
I, as a paddler, this hooked me on, on a different kind of paddling because

00:59:00.566 --> 00:59:03.066
I, as I alluded to, I'm blessed.

00:59:03.206 --> 00:59:06.686
I live in a part of the world that is a Mecca for sea kayaking.

00:59:06.846 --> 00:59:09.566
And I could live my whole life here and never see at all.

00:59:10.434 --> 00:59:14.014
But to be honest, now that I've had a taste for the travel paddling,

00:59:14.374 --> 00:59:17.654
you know, having the opportunity to just put a kayak on a plane,

00:59:18.174 --> 00:59:22.214
have it, pick it up on the other side and, and, and say, take me to the beach,

00:59:22.394 --> 00:59:28.774
you know, and to be able to travel that way, I'm kind of hooked and I can't

00:59:28.774 --> 00:59:30.994
wait to see what comes up next.

00:59:30.994 --> 00:59:36.234
I'm working with friends and colleagues to ideate the next place to travel to paddle.

00:59:36.454 --> 00:59:41.314
And it might not always be a Latin American country like Nicaragua.

00:59:41.494 --> 00:59:45.894
I dream of doing similar trips in Europe, in the UK, Scandinavia.

00:59:46.454 --> 00:59:47.914
Honestly, parts of Asia.

00:59:48.114 --> 00:59:54.414
I'd like to see places that are normally tourist traps and get off that tourist

00:59:54.414 --> 00:59:59.654
trap path by using a portable kayak. So it's kind of changed the way I perceive

00:59:59.654 --> 01:00:01.654
travel and it's changed the way I perceive paddling.

01:00:02.134 --> 01:00:05.114
I think it's just that for me, I'm just kind of scraping the surface now.

01:00:05.334 --> 01:00:09.734
I've realized like there's a lot that can be seen from the deck of a kayak.

01:00:10.254 --> 01:00:13.514
Sure. And with the boats you've got, you can get to a lot of different places.

01:00:13.694 --> 01:00:17.974
So that's fantastic and love hearing about the trip and the experience.

01:00:17.974 --> 01:00:21.234
What an amazing journey that sounds like it was for you.

01:00:21.494 --> 01:00:25.354
And great that you have that wonderful, grateful feeling for all the things

01:00:25.354 --> 01:00:28.514
that you do have and for the family that is supporting you.

01:00:28.654 --> 01:00:31.534
So you mentioned the boats. I've mentioned that a couple of times.

01:00:31.834 --> 01:00:36.114
And so very capable craft. And you've kind of proven that of the capability

01:00:36.114 --> 01:00:39.894
of the craft. You've been able to use that same craft in a sea kayak environment

01:00:39.894 --> 01:00:42.454
or open water environment, and then in river environment.

01:00:42.754 --> 01:00:47.034
Tell us just a little bit about the TRAC kayak and its design.

01:00:47.554 --> 01:00:52.894
Well, TRAC is a folding skin on frame kayak, 16 feet long.

01:00:53.074 --> 01:00:58.574
It's got hard chines, V-shaped hull, designed kind of on that traditional Greenland kayak.

01:00:59.298 --> 01:01:02.958
Ultimately borrows from the origins of kayaking skin on frame,

01:01:03.218 --> 01:01:08.278
except instead of using bones and antlers and driftwood and animal hides for,

01:01:08.498 --> 01:01:11.918
you know, we're using aircraft grade aluminum for the frame, carbon fiber ribs.

01:01:12.518 --> 01:01:18.218
Polyurethane skin that's heat welded together and radio frequency welded and hydraulic jacks.

01:01:18.458 --> 01:01:21.558
Which create the tension for you to be able to insert two

01:01:21.558 --> 01:01:24.318
halves of the kayak into the skin and then

01:01:24.318 --> 01:01:27.138
use those jacks to create the tension and also adjust the

01:01:27.138 --> 01:01:30.158
rocker so the track is the only kayak in the world that

01:01:30.158 --> 01:01:32.978
can adapt to different conditions depending on where

01:01:32.978 --> 01:01:35.858
you want to use it or what conditions you find around the

01:01:35.858 --> 01:01:38.758
corner so it makes it a very versatile boat very capable boat

01:01:38.758 --> 01:01:41.798
a lot of people think that it doesn't have

01:01:41.798 --> 01:01:44.578
storage and that's not true it actually does have

01:01:44.578 --> 01:01:47.638
a considerable amount of storage we use

01:01:47.638 --> 01:01:50.558
ultimately flotation bags that double

01:01:50.558 --> 01:01:53.578
as gear bags so you can use the gear flotation bags

01:01:53.578 --> 01:01:56.858
to store up to 60 liters worth the gear forward

01:01:56.858 --> 01:01:59.618
and aft and usually i carry a couple other

01:01:59.618 --> 01:02:02.358
smaller dry bags behind my seat maybe one on

01:02:02.358 --> 01:02:06.238
the deck so it has the same storage capabilities as

01:02:06.238 --> 01:02:09.258
a typical hard shell sea kayak it's just going to be loaded slightly

01:02:09.258 --> 01:02:12.398
differently and it has a payload of 350 pounds

01:02:12.398 --> 01:02:15.398
so it's certainly capable for for most multi-day expeditions

01:02:15.398 --> 01:02:18.418
that people are doing similar to fiberglass boats

01:02:18.418 --> 01:02:21.478
in most cases so on that on those crossings you

01:02:21.478 --> 01:02:24.378
can i don't know how to describe it but you can you basically lower

01:02:24.378 --> 01:02:27.078
the rocker track out a little bit better and then when you get on the

01:02:27.078 --> 01:02:30.898
river jack that thing up and then when you get out to that that end and you

01:02:30.898 --> 01:02:34.378
have to surf in crank it up a little bit more and have a little bit of fun absolutely

01:02:34.378 --> 01:02:38.498
you know you nailed it i mean i it's it's one boat to rule all the conditions

01:02:38.498 --> 01:02:42.958
and i think the trip unintentionally gave us a taste of a little bit of everything

01:02:42.958 --> 01:02:47.058
you know from flat water to moving water to some serious surf conditions and.

01:02:47.866 --> 01:02:50.566
You know, some people say, oh, it doesn't have a skeg, doesn't have a rudder.

01:02:50.866 --> 01:02:53.666
You know, I think there's lots of debates on that. Don't need to talk.

01:02:53.726 --> 01:02:55.146
You have a whole podcast about that.

01:02:55.326 --> 01:02:58.366
The main thing to say is that, you know, in the circumstances where you would

01:02:58.366 --> 01:03:02.386
normally drop a skeg on a boat in those, in, in, when it comes to the track,

01:03:02.506 --> 01:03:05.426
you just lower the rocker all the way down to get more, more stern in the water.

01:03:05.606 --> 01:03:11.186
And being that it's a, you know, deep V-shaped boat that tends to do the trick

01:03:11.186 --> 01:03:14.026
in terms of, you know, keeping your stern planted and following seas.

01:03:14.026 --> 01:03:17.586
You could also experiment with the opposite when you're going into conditions

01:03:17.586 --> 01:03:19.126
or you're facing steeper seas.

01:03:19.406 --> 01:03:22.226
Just jacking up the rocker slightly can give you a lot more confidence,

01:03:22.446 --> 01:03:25.246
a lot more maneuverability when the wind and waves are throwing you around.

01:03:25.506 --> 01:03:29.766
And I will say like the rocker potential in a track kayak is massive.

01:03:29.946 --> 01:03:33.786
Like if you want to jack the rocker all the way up, you've got a serious banana

01:03:33.786 --> 01:03:37.306
boat, a serious playboat that I've seen people paddle in class three in.

01:03:37.486 --> 01:03:42.466
Very capable for surfing. And it's a very easy kayak to roll.

01:03:42.466 --> 01:03:45.386
It's not a tricky a lot of the packable boats

01:03:45.386 --> 01:03:48.386
are impossible to roll that like the track is a sea kayak first

01:03:48.386 --> 01:03:51.806
and foremost that just happens to be packable i

01:03:51.806 --> 01:03:55.606
like to say that you can transport it on the roof if that's what you prefer

01:03:55.606 --> 01:03:59.526
you don't have to put it into a bag but it is sized for air travel so the idea

01:03:59.526 --> 01:04:04.186
with the bag is that it meets standard airport travel dimensions but it's also

01:04:04.186 --> 01:04:07.886
you know it fits in the back of a smart car i think about people who own track

01:04:07.886 --> 01:04:10.906
kayaks in dense places like Hong Kong and they, you know,

01:04:11.026 --> 01:04:15.026
they store all of their paddling gear in a, in a tiny closet with the track.

01:04:15.186 --> 01:04:16.986
So it's a lot of different applications.

01:04:17.933 --> 01:04:22.153
It might not be for everybody. You might not have a need for a packable boat.

01:04:22.313 --> 01:04:26.153
But if you have a dream of paddling abroad or even just taking a kayak with

01:04:26.153 --> 01:04:27.633
you on vacation in your van,

01:04:27.953 --> 01:04:31.533
or you live in a tight little space and you don't want to have to be reliant

01:04:31.533 --> 01:04:36.913
on kayak rentals or you use public transit, like the track is everything you

01:04:36.913 --> 01:04:40.133
would want and dream from a regular sea kayak, a hard shell performance sea kayak,

01:04:40.313 --> 01:04:43.653
and a little bit more because that adjustable rocker is arguably a lot of fun.

01:04:43.893 --> 01:04:47.313
Cool. I will say it's not a gimmick. Like once you get to try it,

01:04:47.433 --> 01:04:49.613
you kind of wish every boat had it.

01:04:50.273 --> 01:04:53.513
Awesome. Well, we'll put links in the show notes so people can check out track

01:04:53.513 --> 01:04:56.753
kayaks as well. So Caleb, how can people reach you if they've got questions?

01:04:57.073 --> 01:05:00.693
Oh, man, I love some questions. I've been meeting with people recently about the trip.

01:05:00.853 --> 01:05:04.093
There's other people who are thinking about kind of repeating aspects of the

01:05:04.093 --> 01:05:06.393
trip in Nicaragua and other countries like it.

01:05:06.493 --> 01:05:11.513
So if you'd like some tips and tricks about dealing with customs,

01:05:11.753 --> 01:05:15.633
best practices for packing a track kayak, or any packable boat for that matter,

01:05:15.633 --> 01:05:18.673
what to expect in terms of amenities and gear

01:05:18.673 --> 01:05:21.593
and stuff like that you know feel free to reach out to me i'm

01:05:21.593 --> 01:05:24.673
on instagram at caleb.mcintyre you can

01:05:24.673 --> 01:05:27.813
also i'm usually the person at track hq who answers

01:05:27.813 --> 01:05:30.713
the info at email so if you just email info at

01:05:30.713 --> 01:05:33.893
track kayaks.com or caleb at track kayaks.com i'd love

01:05:33.893 --> 01:05:36.933
to have a chat with you i i'm happy to set up like a one-on-one video

01:05:36.933 --> 01:05:39.933
call i like to make myself available just because

01:05:39.933 --> 01:05:42.853
there's a lot of us who are dreaming now of going further

01:05:42.853 --> 01:05:46.033
with kayaking but it's still a relatively novel

01:05:46.033 --> 01:05:50.653
sport or niche within this sport so please reach out i'd love to chat with you

01:05:50.653 --> 01:05:55.493
and and share some some dreams of paddling elsewhere excellent well like said

01:05:55.493 --> 01:05:58.553
we'll put we'll put links in the show notes so folks can uh can reach out to

01:05:58.553 --> 01:06:01.913
you and make that connection uh caleb one last question that i have for you

01:06:01.913 --> 01:06:05.133
and that is who else would you like to hear as a future guest on paddling the blue,

01:06:05.853 --> 01:06:11.013
Oh, man, I think you really need to interview Jim Mee from Rat Race Adventures,

01:06:11.353 --> 01:06:16.393
the owner of the company that, you know, he's the person who ideated this trip across Nicaragua.

01:06:16.633 --> 01:06:18.393
He just wanted to see if it was possible.

01:06:19.653 --> 01:06:23.453
But Jim's been doing trips like this all over the world. And I think you need

01:06:23.453 --> 01:06:27.973
to ask him about his kayak trip in Micronesia to the ancient city of Nandmapur.

01:06:28.053 --> 01:06:29.893
I think I'm saying that right, but I might not be.

01:06:30.053 --> 01:06:33.613
It's known as historically as the Venice of the Pacific.

01:06:33.613 --> 01:06:36.233
Uh it's ultimately a civilization that no

01:06:36.233 --> 01:06:38.953
longer exists anymore but they got to see it and this is a

01:06:38.953 --> 01:06:42.173
place that very few people even know exists never

01:06:42.173 --> 01:06:47.033
mind take the journey to see and i'd love i want to hear his story about exploring

01:06:47.033 --> 01:06:51.753
it from from the kayak so reach out to jim me from rat race adventures awesome

01:06:51.753 --> 01:06:55.053
we'll do that caleb thank you very much for the opportunity to hear about your

01:06:55.053 --> 01:06:59.413
trip with uh with rat race to nicaragua and the experience that you had and

01:06:59.413 --> 01:07:00.713
i appreciate your time. Thank you.

01:07:01.113 --> 01:07:03.453
Thank you, John. Happy paddling. Thank you, too.

01:07:04.637 --> 01:07:08.157
If you want to be a stronger and more efficient paddler, Power to the Paddle

01:07:08.157 --> 01:07:11.817
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01:07:11.817 --> 01:07:16.217
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01:07:16.397 --> 01:07:20.237
The concept and exercises in this book have helped me become a better paddler,

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low back, use the power of your torso to create leverage and use less energy

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strokes more efficient,

01:07:34.897 --> 01:07:38.397
Have the endurance to handle long days in the boat, drive through the toughest

01:07:38.397 --> 01:07:41.817
waves or white water, protect your body against common paddling injuries,

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And who wouldn't mind that? So visit paddlingexercises.com to get the book and companion DVD.

01:07:50.437 --> 01:07:54.417
You can really hear Caleb's enthusiasm for paddling and for experiencing the

01:07:54.417 --> 01:07:55.757
environment and the people around him.

01:07:55.917 --> 01:07:59.417
He's a great storyteller who has a knack for taking us along with him on the trip.

01:07:59.677 --> 01:08:02.597
At times, the water may have been pretty gross and things were trying to eat

01:08:02.597 --> 01:08:07.277
him, but still the trip of a lifetime and he knows what's really important in life.

01:08:07.597 --> 01:08:13.837
Visit the show notes for this episode at www.paddlingtheblue.com slash 165 where

01:08:13.837 --> 01:08:19.197
you'll find Caleb's story with photos and other links to learn more about rat race and track kayaks.

01:08:19.397 --> 01:08:23.537
And as a reminder, you can find programming and trips for me at paddlingtheblue.com.

01:08:23.677 --> 01:08:27.597
Click that trips and courses link at the top of the page and I hope to see you on the water.

01:08:27.897 --> 01:08:32.537
And if you're not already a subscriber to onlineseekayaking.com or onlinewetwater.com

01:08:32.537 --> 01:08:37.017
remember you can always use that coupon code PTBpodcast to check out and you'll

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get 10% off just for being a member of the Paddling the Blue community

01:08:40.417 --> 01:08:45.537
thanks as always for listening and I look forward to bringing you the next episode of Paddling the Blue.

01:08:46.894 --> 01:08:50.134
Thank you for listening to Paddling the Blue. You can subscribe to Paddling

01:08:50.134 --> 01:08:54.314
the Blue on Apple Music, Spotify, or wherever you find your favorite podcasts.

01:08:54.554 --> 01:08:57.454
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01:08:57.634 --> 01:08:59.314
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01:08:59.514 --> 01:09:02.754
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01:09:03.074 --> 01:09:08.514
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01:09:08.694 --> 01:09:11.814
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